When wool cost an arm and a leg

Like so much else in America's history, the huge wool industry began only because of a democratic movement. Its growing population were demanding wool. Vast tracts of grazing land were there to feed the necessary sheep, but a king 3,000 miles of ocean away, stamped his royal foot and said “No!”

The toughest laws were introduced to stop anyone trading wool in the Colonies (rather reminiscent of attitudes nowadays when politicians strive for the impossible). Instead of today's threats of long terms of imprisonment, the draconian measures in those days were to chop off the offender’s right hand.

The result of the impossible laws? America soon had a flourishing trade with a million sheep. To be fair, not all were smuggled into the country. Probably the majority were the progeny of the illegal immigrants.

America’s elected leaders, of course, set the tone. George Washington imported sheep and brought spinners and weavers from England. He maintained vast flocks of sheep, as did President Jefferson, and both were inaugurated in woollen suits. Perhaps the colonists hinted their feelings about the King's English (and more besides), by going their own way with the spelling of woollen (woolen).

However, when this law was supported by other oppressive edicts like by the Stamp Act of 1765, which insisted revenue stamps be affixed to all printed documents in the Colonies, plotting began for the Revolutionary War.

The first sheep arrived in America many years before. Columbus, on his wool-sponsored journeys to the New World, took sheep to Cuba and Santo Domingo on his second voyage in 1493. When the conquistador commander Cortez explored what is now Mexico and South-Western America, he took flocks of their descendants. Navajo and other tribes recognised the value of sheep immediately, and traded for breeding pairs. Even today, the descendants of Columbus' sheep supply wool for Navajo rugs and wall hangings, which are sought after internationally.

Jamestown claims to be the Colonies' first wool growing town. In spite of the Royal Decree, or possibly encouraged by it, the wool industry took off hugely. Hollywood must have rated sheep a poor actor, for - despite their absence on screen - many Americans migrating westwards were accompanies by large flocks.

Spain had fought to keep its merinos to itself, but it was inevitable that such a useful breed could not be confined to Europe. Early in the 19th Century, large numbers started to arrive in America, and quickly improved the existing stock.

The crafts of spinning and weaving became established in New England, first as cottage industries but, before long, in factories. Tax exemptions and production bounties soon boosted the burgeoning trade, and in Massachusetts a law required young people to learn the arts of spinning and weaving.

New inventions like the spinning jenny, combing machines, and water-powered looms, expanded the industry rapidly.

In the United States, under the Wool Products Labelling Act of 1939, the term wool may be applied only to fabrics made entirely of new wool. The term ‘reprocessed wool’ is applied to wool recovered from unused articles and waste. The term ‘reused wool’ is applied to wool reclaimed from used articles. The trade designates fleece wool as virgin wool, salvaged wool as shoddy. Salvaged wool may legitimately be used to add strength to soft new wool, or to produce a cheaper product. Numerous synthetic fibres have been developed as wool imitations and for blending with wool.

The United States now produces a substantial amount of the world's wool, chiefly in Texas, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Oregon, Idaho, New Mexico, Colorado, California, and Ohio. Woollen cloth manufacture is largely centred in New England. Other important wool producers include Australia, Argentina, New Zealand, Russia, the Republic of South Africa, Uruguay, Great Britain, China, and India.

The expertise which accompanies the refinement of wool in America does have its downside. The cost of improving wool does mean a higher price, and this is reflected in the export figures. For more than nine years now, the levels of wool production has fallen.

The American farmers' loss however, has been good news for farmers abroad, with imports of wool increasing. But the rise in imports is well below the loss in exports. For about fifty years after the Second World War, imports provided 42 per cent of wool used nationally. By the end of the nineties, imports provide almost 48 per cent.

Which means, theoretically at least, that half the money spent in America on woollen products will go to farmers abroad.

The University of Wisconsin <A HREF="http://www.uwex.edu">(www.uwex.edu)</A> reports a 29% global drop in wool production in every wool producing country. Only Argentina suffers more than America, with a downturn of 54%. The figures make for sober viewing: Australia down 37%, South Africa 48%, Uruguay 44, and New Zealand 16%.

The only country to show a change for the better is China, where wool production rose by 21%.

However, history shows the loss of wool production has been enormous. In 1942, for instance, there were estimated to be 56.2 million sheep, but 59 years later, just 6.92 million – a drop of about 87%.

It seems the greatest advantage for the wool producers comes with war. Once armies begin to re-equip, the demand for almost every type of wool becomes enormous.